The History of Surfing
Surfing - The Sport of Kings and Queens
Of the Hawaiians who surfed, it was the ali'i or chiefly class, who claimed the highest reputation for dedicated proficiency with board and waves. They had their own prayers, chanters, board shapers, wood and beaches where they alone could surf with others of similar rank. No one dared to drop in on their wave, not a chance, because that meant death, or at least a near death experience. Because surfing was strongly endorsed by the ali'i as well as the maka ai nana (ma-ka-eye-naa-naa) (common people), it achieved a special status and respectability in ancient Hawaii. Renowned surfers were celebrated in song and dance and often enjoyed special privileges in royal circles. Their status as leaders within the class of chiefs depended, in part, on their strength and stamina. The sport of surfing served as arduous training as well as a challenging pastime, to keep them fit for the physical requirements of their chiefly position.
In his Polynesian Researches, the Christian missionary William Ellis (1794-1872) recalls that Kaumualii, the great mo'i (king) from the island of Kauai, was renowned as an accomplished surfer. Ellis also recalls seeing the elderly Big Island chiefs Karaimoku (Ka-ra-ee-moku) and Kakioena (Ka-kee-o-en-na).
"both between fifty and sixty years of age, and large corpulent men, balancing themselves on their long and narrow boards, or splashing about in the foam, with as much satisfaction as youths of sixteen."
Which ever board they choose, olo, kiko'o (longboard) or alaia (short), the chiefs took great pride in the skill, grace, speed, and courage with which they rode the Pacific's swells.
Hawaiian surfers often exhibited their finest wave-riding style in fierce competition. This was, in fact, a major part of the game to early enthusiasts, and the betting that accompanied every contest was no doubt an important incentive for the practice of the sport. When the waves were at its biggest, and all bets were in- personal property such stake, not to mention the tremendous personal pride, ego and even romance- were all on the line; winner takes all.
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